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Writer's pictureShabbir Baldiwala

An Indonesian Odyssey

Updated: Jul 6

Please click on the hyperlinks and drop-drowns to read more about the location, review and see more pics.


Hitherto, I have always traveled to Indonesia with a Dive group. This time I planned the entire vacation and diving on my own. So, it was but natural to have a few butterflies in the stomach. And in retrospect, I may take the liberty of saying that the itinerary including the hotels, dive centers and travel was spotless.


 

However, the airport paints an entirely different picture. A few tips for travelers landing at Denpasar airport, Bali:



The airport conundrum

Once the plane touches down, get your legs moving quickly, because you have a lot to do at the airport.

First of the queues - Visa on arrival payment - costs IDR 500,000 (USD 34).


Next - Immigration - This is a really long one. And if you are unlucky, you may land up with an officer who will probably discuss his marital and financial problems with you.


This is the longest hurdle to cross and if you do manage to take the long jump forward without tripping over, you shall be welcome to another queue where you need to fill an online form as a Customs declaration. Either you scan their QR code on your phone if you have an active net connection, or use their computer to do the same and generate a code for your next queue.


And thankfully, the last one is the least difficult. Just show your customs QR code and take the final leap to the exit.


And in all this hullabaloo, do not forget to collect your checked in bags from the carousel.


Please ensure you follow all steps in chronological order, or else you could land up wasting a hell lot of time. Ours lasted for a close 90 mins.





The arrival lounge gives you plenty of options for Forex exchange, Sim card purchase and transport to the city or an island.


 

NUSA PENIDA


Welcome to Nusa Penida

is an island located near the southeastern Indonesian island of Bali and a district of Klungkung Regency that includes the neighboring small island of Nusa Lembongan and twelve smaller islands. The Badung Strait separates the island and Bali.


It is a volcanic island with flourishing flora and fauna. The interior of Nusa Penida is hilly.

Beautiful flowers and verdant vegetation greet us throughout the island.

Most of the beaches are found below a cliff and the erosion by natural forces has given rise to spectacular landforms.


Nusa Penida derives its name from the Balinese language, with “Nusa” meaning “island” and “Penida” meaning “priest”. Hence, Nusa Penida literally translates to “island of priests”. It holds cultural significance due to its name, reflecting the island’s historical

connection to Balinese Hinduism. In contrast, the Dutch referred to it as “Bandit Island” in 1900.




How to reach: Sanur harbor in Bali is the closest port to take the speedboat to NP. From Bali airport, 30 mins to Sanur by road and then another 30 mins by boat and you are in NP.


Sanur harbor
Sanur harbor

What to eat: There are a lot of cafés and eateries serving local food as well as continental gourmet.

Indonesian meal

A cool dragon fruit or a coconut water

Coconut water in Indonesia

on a hot sunny day may be the most refreshing thing you could ever find.

Sugar Daddy -A cool ice cream joint near the harbor, or Xi No Na Boba - an Indonesian boba drink, could be other good options.


Xi No Na Boba - Indonesian Boba

What to do: Nusa Penida is a typical Indonesian island that offers a host of activities and sports. Scuba diving and Snorkelling are the main attractions here. It may be a great option for honeymooners too.

There are a lot of picturesque places to visit. The standouts are the Kelingking and Crystal beaches.

Scooters are available easily on rent at IDR 100,000 per day.


Diving at Nusa Penida:

Hotels in Nusa Penida



 

GILI TRAWANGAN


Gili islands

The Gili Islands are a group of 3 tiny islands – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air – in Indonesia, near the coast of northwest Lombok Island. Trawangan has been commercialized for tourism and diving. Supposedly the party capital, Gili T as is famously known, is approx 15 sq km.


Cafés, restaurants, shops and hotels, line one side of the main road and the other side is lined by the beach. No motorized transport is allowed on the island. Bicycles, Electric bikes and horse carts (cidomos)

Cidomo (horse cart) in Gili Trawangan

are the only available modes of commute, apart from walking or running on the beach.


There is only one port of entry for all boats on the island.

There is a Gili entry tax and Harbor exit tax to be paid while entering and leaving the island -IDR 10,000 each time.


Sitting in the beach cafés one can peacefully ‘sip’ in the delicious charm of the island, with the tranquil waves kissing the shores, the clip clop and jingling bells of cidomos, the fit and peppy bikers riding through the island, the prayers in the mosque, the colorful sarongs and bikinis, the quaint little shops selling local handmade souvenirs and colorful clothing….

The clip clop of the cidomo horses and the jingling of their bells reminded me of the Sherlock Holmes series and of the Alfred Noyes poem lines - …the highwayman came riding, riding …



Sunset at Gili Trawangan

Sunset views are an attraction here. Gili T’s panorama is flanked by Mount Rinjani in Lombok and Mount Agung in Bali. The picturesque peaks surrounded by white cotton clouds offer a majestic yet serene spectacle.

Gili Trawangan


The island has 3 mosques. The largest is Masjid Agung Baiturrahman with a landmark tall white minaret and colorful domes.


Liquor is easily available at all bars and marts. Despite Gili T having a local authority, narcotics like ‘mushroom’ are openly sold.


Most of the hustle-bustle is towards the harbor. As you move away, the cafés and resorts get more elitist.


An average meal would cost approx IDR 200,000 (₹1000) per couple.



Special mention needs to be made of the Trawangan night market.


It’s a culinary delight. Fresh fish, lobsters, prawns, octopus, and the list is endless.

Just select your fish and they will grill it right in front of you. Depending on the size, it would cost between IDR 100,000 -200,000. Complimentary rice and vegetables are also served with the meal.

Trawangan night market
Trawangan night market

A fruit that caught our fancy was the

Snake fruit.

Diving at Gili T

Gili Divers

Gili Divers Hotel


 

BALI


Gili T to Bali is a neat 2 hrs by a fast boat. Padang bai should be the port to disembark at Bali if arriving from Gili. There is a free bus shuttle from the port to many locations in Bali. However, a taxi would be a quicker option.

For us, Bali was just a sort of layover to catch the flight the next day. And since Sanur is closest to the airport, we decided to spend the rest of the day at Sanur.

That was enough for us to catch a glimpse of this beautiful and vibrant city of Bali.


Frangipani trees can be found almost everywhere in Bali. The flowers are white, yellow or pinkish with a sweet mild fragrance.

Putat laut trees (also called fish poison tree) are grown along streets for decorative and shade purposes.


There are no tall structures in Bali since no building is allowed to be taller than the height of an average coconut tree, which is 15 meters!

Most of the houses have roof tops which are red slated with ornate carvings on the top and edges.


An ornate cuboidal totem with incense is usually found outside small houses or in the courtyard of bigger houses.

Balinese New Year

Balinese traditions

Sometimes, when there are many options to choose from, selection becomes more difficult. The place that we stayed for the night, ticks off all the right boxes.


This was my third visit (and definitely not the last) to Indonesia. On all occasions, I have been to different islands. I dare say that the diversity that this country offers at each island may be unparalleled. But what remains common amongst all is the Indonesian hospitality.






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