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Writer's pictureShabbir Baldiwala

Wagah Border - Where 'Vande Mataram' echoes

Updated: Jul 8


Attari-Wagah border, Amritsar
Attari-Wagah border

I have been close to Indo-Bangladesh and Indo-China borders, but as they say, India-Pakistan is a different ball game altogether.


The Wagah border is just 45 mins from Amritsar city. You know you are on the correct route when you see kids selling INDIA flags along the way. You can park your car in the lot and walk up to the entrance.

Attari-Wagah border, Amritsar

The temperatures were soaring at 40+ but the zeal never seemed to be falling.

Entry is absolutely free.

No bags are allowed inside. Cameras with single lens and mobiles are allowed. They have provided safety lockers at a rent of ₹50-100.

Gates open at 3.30pm. The stadium is divided into different arenas.


The rule: The lower seats offer the best view of the proceedings while the higher ones offer best protection from the Sun.

The observation: The lower ones get occupied first during winters and upper ones during summer.


Parade, Attari-Wagah border, Amritsar

There are 2 categories of seating: General & VIP. The passes for the VIP seating have to be collected beforehand and is available through the 'Indian jugaad'.


The parade starts at 6pm during summer and is preceded by a few patriotic songs. Ladies and children are then invited to the ground for grooving to Bollywood numbers. The coordinated parade lasts for 20-25 mins on both the Indian as well as Pakistani sides and ends by lowering of the national flags.


The lowering of the flags ceremony at the Attari-Wagah border is a daily military practice that the security forces of India (Border Security Force, BSF) and Pakistan (Pakistan Rangers) have jointly followed since 1959. The drill is characterized by elaborate and rapid dance-like manoeuvres and raising legs as high as possible. It is both a symbol of the two countries’ rivalry, and a display of brotherhood and cooperation between the two nations.


There are a few kiddie activities and restaurants outside but the commodity that sells the most is Mineral water.


पंछी नदिया पवन के झोंके
कोई सरहद ना इन्हें रोके
सरहदें इन्सानों के लिए हैं
सोचो तुमने और मैने क्या पाया इन्सां हो के

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